Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
